Nakamachi Excitement

Last night we went to a really great party at Yanedan, the artist commune outside of Kanoya. Great food and company, and we roasted a pig! Here's Tyler keeping watch over the roast. 

After the party ended we decided to make a go of it in Kanoya's most happening area...

 I realized last night that I haven't actually taken any pictures of us out in Nakamachi. The highly exciting (not) drinking district in Kanoya. Probably because it's a pretty sad place, and it takes a large amount of self motivation and heavy drinking to actually have a wild night out here (although it's been done).

The area consists mostly of snack bars. These are tiny bars that charge a flat fee for an hour of all-you-can-drink, and lure you in (some people anyhow) with snack girls: kind of like call girls, or the modern (and much trashier) version of geisha. On any given saturday night, Nakamachi is crawling with boozing young men in business suits, attached to the arms of snack girls wearing impossibly tall plastic heels and impossibly long fake eyelashes. It's a sight to behold really, and one must take it as a "cultural experience", or be driven to deep depression when considering the sad lack of night life in Kagoshima.

Mil and Alex considering the many bars in Nakamachi. Options include "Aaliyah", "Dear Rich", "Carrot" (where they actually have carrots hanging from the walls), "septem-BAR", and "Jam" (a personal favorite). 

The view down from the third floor of snack bar central. Below, a snack girl strides by in a floor length neon pink polyester dress.

Maybe the best part of the night! Kousuke-kun shows us where to get great niku maki (rice balls wrapped in meat).

Cycle cycle cycle

Been going on some amazing rides recently. One of my favorites the other day went almost all through back roads and farm land, out to the beach, up to the rose garden (killer hill climb), down to the Taco restaurant for dinner, and back into Kanoya. Perfect ride!

Endless green.

Beach shrine

Mil stops for water and two runners pass us up the hill. Ouch.

Hilarious taco woman. She literally did not stop talking the whole time we were there.

My other recent favorite ride was one Mil and I went on in the dark (by accident) the other night. We cycled out of town in the direction of Aira Sanryo, a famous tomb and shrine of sorts near here. The streets were deserted, the stars were out, and the only light came from the lone vending machines dotting the rice paddies. No pictures of that one, but I want to remember it. Especially because the temperature was perfect- cool and fresh (something that is quickly slipping away here.) 

Many more rides to come! 

Cooking Nihon Ryori

Another cooking class came and went this past Tuesday, and it was another delicious feast. I've been going to cooking class once a month since coming to Japan, and not once has it disappointed. This is the kind of food that is truly authentic, but that you just can't find in restaurants. It's got that home cooked feel, while also being totally gourmet. This week we had these amazing scallop dumplings (?) in a kind of miso (?) sauce, along with amazing cabbage soup and rice seasoned with fish and fresh ginger. To top it off we had eggplant wrapped in bacon ( I swear every class we have features something wrapped in bacon, it's amazing), bread with a tomato topping, salad, and a delicious special mochi for desert, all the way from Amami island.

I hope I can manage to translate these recipes and simulate them somehow when I get back to the states. Class usually consists of the nihonjins doing all the important work, and us guijins standing around trying to find jobs to do, following whatever mama chef tells us to (usually the menial tasks). There's always a lot of people in the kitchen, and I don't always witness the magic... but really, the eating is what we truly come for of course. It was sugoi oishikatta!

Because I didn't start this blog until a few weeks ago, here are a few more pictures of previous cooking class dinners. All amazing! Hopefully I can attempt some of these things for you all when I get back.

Crockets with an amazing miso sauce.

Beef in bacon! and pea soup

Wrapping beef in bacon= amazing.

Salmon deliciousness

Our teacher/host and mama chef, along with her daughter.

Spider fighting in Kajiki

Last weekend Tyler and I traveled north to Kajiki to see some friends, and to experience the very famous (?) Kajiki Spider fighting festival. Tyler was pretty skeptical before we left, assuring me it was going to be very boring. It turned out to be extremely thrilling though!! Apparently they breed and train these spiders for fighting, letting them live in their houses just like pets. Here are some pictures courtesy of Tyler:

Basically they would put two spiders on a long stick, and the first one to nock the other off, bite the other, or wrap the other in web was the winner. Then they would challenge the winner with a new spider. What I couldn't understand was how they could actually tell them apart. The man in the traditional Japanese robes was there to mediate, and nudge the spiders toward one another if they weren't cooperating. The man in the yellow was like a commentator, and he sounded much like an auctioneer, talking really really fast in single syllable words the whole time. It was quite the show, and I felt pretty comfortable around the spiders. Although if it was me versus one of those in my apartment, I would likely reach my untimely end, as I almost did last september when my face-off with a hand sized yellow spider ended with me in hysterics and my apartment covered in toxic bug spray. eek!

ICHIBAN Koko in Kagoshima

Sorry for the lack of posts (to whoever actually reads this). The teaching of the children and the cycling madness has been occupying most of my time.

I'm not sure how interesting this is to anybody, but a few weeks ago, my high school (koko) got FIRST PLACE at our volleyball tournament. That's like winning state... for high school teacher teams. But STILL. Pretty great right!? Mostly it was fun just to hang out with all my favorite co workers, and see some truly awesome volleyball played by our mostly male team. My teacher informed me that the vocational schools are usually the best at sports. I have to agree- the teachers and students at my agricultural high school have a certain healthy glow about them always. Must be all that work outside. They are all fit, tan, and genki (happy/well/excited/good/healthy).

I taught the team American cheers for when we got aces and side outs, and they taught me the Japanese equivalents. When someone makes a mistake you say "domine, domine" (as in, Don't mind...) and instead of saying "nice spot" for when someone places the ball well on the other side of the court, they say "nisuu coasuu" (nice course...). Pretty funny.

It felt amazing to be on winning volleyball team! It's been since my freshman year at Whitman when our club team won blue shirts.  I didn't get a picture of the whole team, but above is one of the women plus Doki, our middle hitter extraordinaire. I hope they do it again next year, even though I won't be there : ( Go Noko!!!

梅雨。Or, Rainy Season.

The rainy season, or "Tsuyu" has started in earnest. This means heavy rains almost everyday, sometimes without stopping for days on end. I have to admit it's a horrible season to have come right before I leave. Just at a time when I'm dying to get outside all the time! Not only does it constantly rain but the temperature and humidity have been steadily rising. I find myself sweating in class, and the chalk falls apart easily in my fingers while trying to write on the board. Mold is starting to creep in. In to the shower, my shoes, blankets, and dishware.

Anyway, I'm trying hard not to let the rain deter me! Tomorrow Tyler and I will cycle to Kokubu, about 50km north, near the national forest. Hopefully we'll have an onsen, and stop off for some nice coffee and Italian food, as well as make a stop at the biggest bike shop around! If the torrential rains don't claim us along the way. In the meantime, here is a poem about the rainy season by one of my favorite Japanese poets, Saigyo.

Staring blankly                  
at the drops
from rafters ends,
barely getting through the days-
fifth-month rainy season

***

Tsukuzuku to    noki no shizuku o    nagametsutsu  
hi o nomi   kurasu     samidare no koro

Grasshoppers - Ryuichi Sakamoto

In my attempt to listen to more Japanese music, I came across this amazing piano piece by Ryuichi Sakamoto. This guys was a pioneer of the electro scene in the early eighties, and went on to do a lot of solo composing, collaborations and scores. Enjoy!

Japanese Drag Queens

Ever wonder what a Japanese drag show is like? Probably not I guess, but it's something that me and the rest of the Kanoya gang were eager to check out once we heard there was a tranny bar in Kagoshima city. I was curious to see what the atmosphere would be like, seeing as how the Japan I have come to know in Kagoshima is quite subdued, and very traditional. There are no crazy clubs in Kagoshima, and people under the age of 90 (let alone dancing) are hard to come by. What's more, besides spending a strange weekend at a Japanese hippie festival a few weeks ago, I have yet to really encounter any kind of "subculture" in Japan. What would these queens be like!? Would it still feel distinctly Japanese? Or would it feel as though I had stepped into another world?

The first number

Raunchy skit, starring our own girl.

Final number.

The first thing I saw when I stepped inside the small fourth floor bar was a tall thin queen, striding by in tall heels and a flowing sequined dress. She let out a deep "Irrashaimase" (welcome)- the only indicator that she was in fact a man. Confirmed. These queens were gorgeous. Of course, this didn't surprise me. In a culture where the men pluck their eyebrows, wear pink, and are just as concerned about their weight as women, I would expect cross dressers to be right on the money.

We were ushered to our reserved table where our own girl was waiting for us, ready to pour us our first nomihodi drinks ( Nomihodi is where you pay a flat fee for all-you-can-drink, which lasts an hour or two. A common practice in Japan, and often a recipe for drunken disaster for the penny pinchers among us.) Our girl was pretty, although more of a matronly type, with a short bob and a thicker figure. As we settled in, it became pretty clear that she was there to entertain. She called us all "girlfriend" in Japanese, and filled the awkward silences as they came with witty jokes. The whole thing reminded me of the geisha tradition, or of the modern day equivalent in Japan- snack girls, who pour drinks and entertain Japanese business men, but don't strip for them or sleep with them. Whatever the similarities, we enjoyed ourselves, and found our hostess to be funny and endearing, even if it was an act. 

This being my first drag show ever, I had no idea what to expect. I thought perhaps we would see a lot of outfit changes, and some choreographed dances? It turned out to be a mixture of that and raunchy slapstick parodies of famous Japanese TV shows. I found this to be incredibly fitting, and totally Japanese. Some elements of Japanese culture have a way of coming off completely ridiculous and kitschy to the foreign eye, while remaining totally serious to the Japanese. Sometimes it astounds me how Japanese people can miss the irony or complete hilarity of things. This was exemplified in the closing number, where three of the most beautiful girls did a very sexy number to... Purple Rain. A song that we find dated and cheesy (although great of course- I love Prince...), they find completely sexy and compelling. (See above picture of purple outfits to match...)

After the final number, and the giving of many tips to the girls (1,000 yen notes slipped between unbroken chopsticks) the lights came on and we were promptly handed the bill and ushered out. A very Japanese ending to a Japanese drag show.

Ride to Sakurajima

On Saturday we decided to cycle to Sakurajima, and then go into the city for the weekend. An easy 45km ride, it was mostly down hill (toward the coast from Kanoya), and we had perfect weather, until we got within about 10km of the volcano, where the ash started getting in our eyes and mouth. How long can one safely close their eyes while cycling full speed down a hill? I think I pushed the limit on that one, trying desperately to keep the ash out!

It was the first ride that Tyler, Mil and I shared together. We stopped at a conbini for lunch, as well as a mango juice stand near Sakurajima, and generally had a great time. Hopefully a good indicator for our upcoming trip in July! Here are a few shots I took along the way.

Cycling has been a wonderful new addition to my life here in Japan. I find it completely relaxes me, and the stresses that so often occupy my thoughts just float away. It's an amazing way to experience the countryside around here too. We cycle through farm land, little towns consisting of a few vending machines and dilapidated buildings, past obachyans (grandmothers) tending to their beautiful gardens, and next to endless rice paddies -brilliantly green during the rainy season.

 I've already had this experience with running here (which I did religiously in preparation for a half marathon back in March), which was a nice way to explore the nooks and crannies around Kanoya, and for finding little shrines and graveyards in tucked away places, but now I can venture much further into the countryside, and over to the coast. While running has been great, I find I much prefer cycling. There is something pretty wondrous about being able to go so far and at such speeds with nothing but the power of your own legs. I guess I'm late to this phenomenon, but I'm glad I'm experiencing it now! 

Japanese Volleyball

In Japanse, ボレバル ("Borebaru")

I'm sitting here in bed with an Asahi, feeling the aches and pains in my knees and forearms that only a good hard volleyball practice can bring. Tonight I had my first practice with my teachers at Noko (my base school).

I was pretty nervous about showing up tonight, seeing as how none of my english teachers could make it, so I would be playing with teachers I didn't know very well (none of which speak english). I had already navigated the travel agent today with my very limited Japanese, and I was tempted to go home and make an early night of it, perhaps getting the first full night of sleep I've had all week.

But I wanted to play. I miss volleyball. I always miss it. It is still the greatest sport on the planet as far as I'm concerned. So I decided to ganbatte it.

I arrived in the gym to see three other male teachers, throwing a ball around. Great. Let the awkwardness ensue. I'm almost used to it by now. Almost.

But by the time the volleyball coach showed up and we started playing three on three, we were in a good groove. I found I could keep up pretty well with these guys (although Japanese people don't seem to sweat, where as I pour...) Ah Sports! One of the great world languages! All we needed was "hai!" "okay desu" "outo", sprinkled with a few "niisu"'s and "onegai shimasu"'s, and of course, many a "gomennasai" (sorry).

Japanese volleyball is essentially the same as in America. What I found hilarious was the running commentary provided by the men, which consisted of many different variations of "heeeeyyy" "okaaayyyyy" "haaaaiiii" "wooooo" "ayyyyyeeee" "niiiiiisssuuuu", in a startling array of intonations and volumes of course . It was non stop!

We played three on three super hard for a straight hour and a half, no stopping. I was gasping for breath, trying to work up the courage to say "eeetoo, sumimasen?! o mizu... dai jo bu?!" As in, "uh, sorry... do you think I could get some water real quick?!" but all of a sudden we were done, thanking each other for all the hard work, in the usual Japanese fashion.

____

It struck me as I was leaving school at around eight o'clock, driving the short distance home with the windows down, that I really have a life here now. I'm not just visiting, this is my home. I guess being involved in school activities outside the english department serves as a strong reminder of this. I love the Noko community, and while I really can't communicate with most of the teachers, I feel warmth and openness from almost everybody. Something that has consistently amazed me here.

We have a tournament in the city next weekend! Tanoshikatta!!

Why Now?

はぎめます!! - let's begin!!

So I've waited until ten months after arriving here in Kagoshima to create this blog. Why didn't I do this a long time ago? Some various reasons are as follows:

1. I am very self conscious of people I don't know that well reading my posts and judging me, especially when what I happen to write could be of a personal nature.
2. I guess I've always been a proponent of "living in the moment" when I travel, and not thinking too hard about how my experiences could be perceived by other people. As in, I didn't want to fall into: "how can I turn this experience into a really cool blog post" or "wow this is going to make a great facebook photo album."
3. I already diligently journal whenever I travel.

SO. With that in mind, why start now!?

1. I guess as my time here in Japan is coming to a close, and I find myself increasingly busy with school, eating, exercising and weekend trips, I feel my time here is slipping away without me being able to fully reflect on it. I'm hoping this blog will give me a better chance to try and make some kind of sense of my time here. You know, "what does it all mean". That type of thing.
2. In late July, two friends and I will embark on a three week bicycle tour from here to Fuji, and then possibly up to Tohoku, before flying out. I might use this blog for the trip, if it is convenient.
3. I've never successfully kept up a blog before, and I'm curious to see what my level of commitment will turn out to be!

So here goes, and please forgive my bad grammar or silly meanderings. I guess this thing is as much for me as it is for anyone who is interested in reading. Hai! Ikimasho!